


My 
JV(ARTIN'S TAIIxORSySTEM 



FOR 



D]RES5 AJND GbO/\K GUTTIJNQ 



OH 



Dressmaking Self-Taught, 



BY 



/ 

J[AMES ^ JV[ARTIN, 

Peoria, - Illinois, 

1888. 




Edward Hine & Co., Printers, Peoria. III. 




]V[ARTIN'S TAILOR^SySTEM 



FOR 



DjRISS AJMD GL0/\K GUTTIJNQ 



OR 



]3ressn}akii}s| S^lf - T a ^g^t, 



BY 

, r) 



4 

James i\^ ]V[artin, 



Peoria, * Illinois, 



1888. 




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Entered according to act of Congress in the year 1888 

By J. A. MARTIN, 

in the office of the librarian of Congress at Washington. 



@J 



D ''"'^ «5<w. 



-jZX T no time in the history of the art of Dressmaking, has there been such 
a demand for a system of Dress and Cloak Cutting that would enable one 
to cut their garments in a satisfactory manner, without having to go through a 
school of instructions, at a great expense as at the present day. Indeed, the 
knowledge of Dress and Cloak Cutting is sought after by almost every lady 
and tailor of to-day. 

In the following pages I have endeavored to supply that long felt want. The 
system herein taught and explained, is of the simplest form, and one that will 
be easily understood. The drafts are reduced to a convenient size for publication, 
and can be transfered to reglar size by the common square by following the di- 
rections I have given. It is true, you will wish to produce many different 
shapes that would be impossible to give in a book of this size, but as all systems 
consist only in certain points and foundation lines, one must be guarded by 
sound judgment and a correct measure, with some ability also to form artistic \L 
lines, or in other words, one must adapt himself to modern styles and fashions 
of the day. 

I have endeavored to draft and explain in a plain way, so that any intelligent 
person will understand simply by reading. 

The draft of ladies' shoulder cape is well worth study, and if cut and made as 
I have instructed, will be a pleasure as well as to give a fine cape for a cool even- 
ing's wear. With the hope that I have not labored in vain, and that the work 
will be a benefit to others, as well as satisfying my own ambition, I am 

Very truly yours, 

>J. A. MARTIN, Author. 






■»-^»£> 




Front View. 




Back View. 



•■^tz-l- 



(\ 



X instructions for ]\Teasaripj 



Place the square under left arm, with short arm perpendicular pointing up; let 
the square touch the front of arm solidly; mark a point as at V, and another at 25; 
reverse the square corner at V, long-arm at 25, short arm at waist; mark a point 
at 8. Now place the square in same position under right arm and make a mark 
at 25 on right side. Take the tape measure and draw it across the back so as to 
touch each the points 25 and 25 on right and left sides; make a point on center of 
back as at F, also make a dot at half way between F and B, as at C, and another 
point at hollow of waist as at H, and a dot at I. 



]ppoceed to JYTeasure as TtolloWs: 

B to C, 3f ; B to F, 7|; B to H, 15; B to 1, 18J; B to J, 22 or length required. 
Place end of tape at C on back seam and measure to L, 6; to elbow, 17; full 
length 29. End of tape at V, measure to F, 10; and up to C, 11; and B, 13J. 
Under short measure : End of tape at V as before, measure over front of 
shoulder to B, 10J, on to C, 12, and to F, 14J inches. Called over measures. 
End of tape still at V, measure down to 8, for waist line 7 J inches; also from V 
to *Z, 7 inches. Now place end of tape at 8, measure back to H, 6| inches. Bust, 
measure close around the bust at the fullest part, close up under the arms, 34; 
draw the tape very close, around the waist in same manner, 24; around hip, at I, 
(take this measure easy,) 38 to 40; around the neck, 14J; around t the sye, 14 to 
15 inches. This completes the form of measurement. 



i 



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k Look on Draft for Z. 




LADIES' SHORT JACKET. 



? 



Instructions for Drafting Ladies' Sacks, Bodice and Cloak. 



The draft of Short Sack or Walking Coat on page 6 is 
produced as follows, viz: 

Commence by squaring lines A, J and A, T, A to F is | on division of halves, 
A to C is J. Place depth of Sye 7| (or measure) at F, mark 3f at C, end of tape at B. 
B to H is waist length 15, to 1, 18J to J, 22 full length. Square out from C, F, H, 
I and J. A to M is ^ bust, C to K is J bust, K to L is 1-16, II to I is one inch 
always, 1 to 2 is | or to fancy, F to W is to f , W to V is one 1-12. Square up 
from W. G is 3J inches from F in all sizes. Draw line from G through W to 
Z. Square up to 26 and down to 8. V to 8 is 7 J inches (or measure taken). 
Apply waist measure from 1 to 13, reducing as required by V's, as at 4, 7, 9 and 
12, taking out same at each V equal; allow J inch to each seam. From 2 to 3 
is 3 inches in most cases. Get length of back from 27 to 2, apply to 28 and 3. 
Sweep from W to R by B, for neck point. Place angle of square at W; long arm 
at D, short arm at R. Draw lines to S D and R D; E is 1-12 from D. Draw line 
from E to T; P is 1-12 from R, R to S is J. Draw line from S to B; 24 is £ from 
S. N" is half-way from A to T; T is half bust measure and 1 inch added; 18 
inches in all from A. Sweep from 3 to 13 by 24. Sweep from J to 29 by N. Q 
is 1-16 from P; is J from Q. Square down from Q and by line E T to 22 and 
21. Top end of darts is |- bust from line G, W and Z. F to X is 17 inches, or 
half bust measure; X to Y is one inch, Y to Z is 1£ inches. Square down 
from T by line E to 29. Shape as per cut. The neck gorge may be raised or 
lowered, to style or fancy. 



I 



•>-^^«- 



P. S. — Point R, may be moved 1 inch forward if desired. 



The Draft of Ladies' Bodice on Opposite Page is Drafted in Same 
Manner as Instructed on Pages 5 and 7. 

The measures taken are same as given on pages 4 and 5, and will stand in 
measure book as follows, viz : 

3J, 7|, 15, 18, 20, down back to full length; C to L, 5|, 18 and 29, full length 
of sleeve. From V to center of back 9J, 10^, 12|. First short measures. From 
center of back seam to V in front; 10J, 12J, 15, second short measures. From 8 
to center of back at H; 7|, third short measure. From V to 8, or waist line, 7. 
Fourth short measure. From V to Z, 7. 32, bust measure, taken close around 
under arms; 24, waist; 40, hip, taken at I, and easy. 

Sometimes I take three other measures, as follows : 5J from R to end of 
shoulder; 14 around armhole or sye; 14 around neck. The neck gorge may be 
raised or lowered according to style or fancy. Also point E, and T can be moved 
forward 1 inch with good results in some cases. The sleeve is drafted and cut 
same as on page 7. Always add 2 inches to bust measure in cutting by division 
on square, as instructed on page 15. 



10 




11 



f 



-^*6?-.- 



m 

The Measures to Produce the Draft on Opposite Page All Take 
Same as Instructed on Page 5. 



— ^TO DRAFT. ^— 

Commence by squaring lines A, J and T; A to B is f inches; 13 to C is 3f 
inches, or measure taken; B to F is 7J inches, or measure to H waist length 15. To 
H 18J and J; 42 full length. Square lines C, F, H, 1 and J. A to M is \ bust; C to 
L is 6 inches, or width of back; H to I is 1 one inch. Draw line from 1 to B. F 
to W is 10 inches, or first under measure; add \\ to V for saams. Sweep from W 
to R by B for neck point. (Point R may be moved forward 1 inch if desired. T will 
also be 1 inch further forward.) V to S is 10 inches or fist over measure; add \ 
inch for seam. Draw line from S to B. 24 is \ bust from S; T is 18 inches from 
A, or 1 inch more than half bust; N is half way between A and T; G is 3| inches 
from F. Draw line through W to Z, from G. X is half bust, 17 inches from F. 
Add 1 inch to Y and \\ inches to Z; E is 1-12 from D. Draw line from W to S, 
and W to D and to S; also D to T; R to P is 1-12. Shape neck gorge high or 
low at front, as to style or fancy. Square down from T by line, T and E to 29. 
Sweep from 3 to 14 by 24; sweep from J to 29 by N. From 2 to 3 is 2>\ inches, 
more or less, as required. From 4 to 5 is 2 inches, more or less, as required. 
Shape as represented; spring back at J about If inches from base line. 
The sleeve is same as on page 14. 



I 



12 




13 



4-To\V to Measure for (^ape- 

B to D, full length 18 inches; Y to U 6 inches; round neck, B to H, through Y 
7J inches; around bust 34. (In cutting add 2 inches, same as in sacks; thus 36 
bust.) This is all the measures required. 

— ^TO DRAFT. ^— 

Draw lines A, B, D and A J; A to B is J, bust on division of halves; B to C is 
J, bust B to D, full length, 18 inches. Square out lines B, C and D. B to E ^ 
bust; B to F is i; B to G is ^. Square up to Y 1-12. Square up from F to H; 
add 1 inch to 1; A to J is J. Square up to L and down to 10. J to K is i; K to 
L is one inch always; C to O is 17 inches, or half bust measure; O to Z is J. Draw 
line from Z to A through Y. Y to U is 6 inches or shoulders measure; to P is 
£; M to N is 1-12; A to X is 1-12. Sweep from D to I by X. Draw line from H 
to S through K. S is same distance from Y as B is from D, 18 inches. Square 
back from S to R \; from R to Q is 10 inches. Sweep from S by U to Q. U to 
W is \ bust; U to V is 1\ inch always. Sweep from B to H by A for cuvre of 
neck. Take out f inch at Y in all cases equal on each side of A Z. Finish as 
represented. 



u 




TO DRAFT SLEEVE. 

Commence by squaring lines A F and A P; A to B is 1-12. A to C is i to D, 
elbow and G, full length. Square lines B, C, D and F; C to O is J; N is f inches 
from O, L is 1 inch from B, I is f inches from H, G is 5 inches from H, or to 
fancy J is 1J inches from Q, K is f inches from J. Shape as represented. 

It is well always to measure armholes and apply to sleeve head. B to O should 
always be half of sye measure. 



15 



CALLED THIRDS AND FOURTHS. 

First, in wanting to draft a pattern of any size you will select from measure 
book the bust measure taken as I have instructed. To this measure you will add 
2 inches for all sizes under 37, and 1 inch for all sizes over 37 to 41, and all sizes 
over 41 use exact measure. 

Now in first case the division for a 34 bust will be 36, aud will stand thus on 
the square : ^ is 18, | is 18, J is 18, ^ is 18, \ is 18 and f is 18; just so throughout 
the entire draft. In case of 36 bust add 2 inches, which is 38. The division will 
be on square 19 throughout draft. In case of 40 bust you will cut by 41 scale. 
The division will stand thus 20|. In 42 bust cut by exact measure. The division 
will stand 22 in all cases; and so on from 24 to 48, bust size. 



Martin's Shirt System 

is tieiie best iiet tieiie jlj^istid. 
Send for it. PRICE, $2.00. 



16 



J. A. MARTIN, 

:Mor and Instructor in the Art of fiarnieijt Sitting 



.A.T I^E^LSOIsTJ^BLE TERMS. 

11^3i S. Adams St., PEORIA, ILL. 



OTKi 



Sailors' * and * Di^bssma^ei^s' * Supplies. 

TAPE MEASURES, SQUARES, YARD STICKS, CURVED RULES, CHALK, SHEARS, ETC. 

Prices tP|e Lowest. Ser\d for Price List, Free. 

J". J±. IM^IR/rilST, 

1123* S. Adams Street, - - PEORIA, ILL. 



Martirx's Shirt System 



-IS THE- 



BEST* AND* EASIEST* LEARNED, 

WILL BE SENT TO ANY ADDRESS ON RECEIPT OF 



Price, $2.00 



To any part of the United States. All orders must be accompanied either by cash, P. O. 
order, express or bank draft. No goods sent C. O. D. unless one-half of amount accompanies 
the order. Address all orders to, 

J. A. MARTIN, 

1123* SOUTH-ADAMS STREET, PBOBIA, ILL. 



LIBRARY OF cmur-Br- 

m 

__w»3 9/3 075 g 



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